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Wild Life of India
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SASAN GIR
Sasan Gir Lion Sanctuary
The last home of the Asiatic lion (Panthera Leo lersica) is 59 km from Junggadh via Visavadar. The Sanctuary, which covers 1400 sq. km, was set up to protect the lion and its habitat, and in this respect has been a success : since 1980 numbers have increased from less than 200 to an estimated 250 . Although the lions seem remarkably tame, in recent years they have reportedly been wandering further a field, well outside the limits of the sanctuary, in search of easy game- which in earlier times was found within the park itself. The problem is compounded by the declining areas of forest outside the sanctuary, forcing villagers to forage for fuel within the sanctuary precincts, reducing the habitat of the lions.
The best time to visit the sanctuary is from December to April, and it is closed completely from 16 June to 15 October. If there has been a heavy monsoon, the sanctuary may open later. |
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Apart from the lions there are over 30 species of other animals , including bears, hyenas, foxes and a number of species of deer and antelope. The deer include the largest Indian antelope (the nilgai) the graceful chinkara gazelle, the chousingha and the barking deer. You may also see parrots, peacocks and monkeys.
The lions themselves are elusive but you'd be unlucky not to see at least one on a safari, although it would be safer to allow for a couple of trips if you're determined to see one .Morning safaris are generally a better bet than those in the afternoons. Unfortunately the local guides are poorly trained and speak little English.
Whatever else you do, take a jeep and not a minibus. While the latter stick to the main tracks, the jeeps can take the small trails where you're much more likely to come across lions.
Before you can go on safari, you must get a permit . These are issued on the spot at the Sinh Sadan Forest Lodge office . Jeeps can take up to six people. There are three main tracks in the park, so you will cover 25 to 35 km , depending on the track your jeep is assigned to. Jeeps are available from the lodge office every day between 7 and 11 am and 3 and 6.30 pm during winter (October to February) and from 6.30 am during summer (March to June).
There are 25 species of reptiles in the sanctuary. A crocodile-rearing centre has been established next to Sinh Sadan Lodge where hatchlings are reared and then released into their natural habitat.
Accommodation & Eating Out
There are two places to stay at Sasan Gir village. About a 10 minute walk from the railway station is the Sinh Sadan Forest Lodge (Tel: 40). It is a very pleasant place to stay, with rooms set around a quiet green garden. Good singles/doubles with mosquito nets and baths with air-con. Whilst advance booking is generally not necessary, the period between Christmas and New Year can be packed out. There is a restaurant which serves thalis or a nonveg dinner.
Gujarat Tourism's Lion Safari Lodge(Tel: 21) is down by the river, about 200 metres from the Sinh Sadan, surrounded by well maintained gardens.
By road:
STC buses between Junagadh and Veraval. Travel via Sasan Gir numerous times throughout the day. The 45 km trip to Veraval takes one to one and a half hours. To Junagadh, the 59 km trip takes around two hours.
By rail
Slow steam trains run to Veraval (two hours) twice daily, to Delwada(Diu) once daily and to Junagadh once a day.
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RANTHAMBORE NATIONAL PARKS
In 1972, it was estimated that there were 1927 tigers in India, of which Rajasthan had 74 and the number of tigers estimated in the Ranthambore Sanctuary's 60 miles (155sq km) was 14. That year saw the launching of Project Tiger and this sanctuary, named after the fort, became one of the eight sanctuaries and national parks of the new project. Over the years, the sanctuary has become a national park with a core area of 158 sq. miles (410 sq. km) with a tiger population of 40 according to the 1986 census. In 1984, an additional area of 40 sq. miles (104 sq. km) of adjoining forest was designed the Sawai Man Singh Sanctuary, after the late Maharaja of Jaipur.
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Other Predators
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This park also has a large population of panthers which are the second largest predators of this forest . The prey species of tigers and panthers overlap, and because of possible conflicts between them, the latter are found more often on the periphery of the park. Kachida valley accounts for the highest number of sightings of these cats. They do not appear to be as fearlessly diurnal as tigers have become and therefore their sightings are not as frequent. Another predators in Ranthambore are hyenas, jackals and jungle eats. Caraeal too have been recorded.
There's a tourist office (tel:20208) in the project Tiger office in Sawai Madhopur. It is tucked away half a km south of the railway station . Just follow the tracks south from the station, through the overpass, and the office is on the left, just before the cinema, which is on the other side of the tracks. The number of vehicles allowed into the park is strictly controlled . There are four trails within the park, and on each safari two or three jeeps take each trail. There are also large trucks , seating 22 people, but they're limited to only two the trails. It's 10 km from Sawai Madhopur to the first park gate, where you pay the entry fees, and a further three km to the main gate and the Jogi Mahal. The accommodation is strung out all the way along the road from the town to the park. Advance booking is essential during the busy Christmas and New Year periods. If you are taking photos, it's worthwhile bringing some 400 or 800 ASA film, as the undergrowth is dense and surprisingly dark.
The range of hotels in Sawai Madhopur has something to appeal to all budgets, generally increasing in price and luxury the closer you get to the park. RTDC hotels are often cheaper between April and June. Though the food isn't special in the cheaper lodges, you'll be glad it's there at all; there's precious little alternative other than the Hotel Garden View, on the Ranthambore Rd, 1 km out of town, which serves inexpensive Chinese, veg and non-veg food.
Ankur Resort
Ranthambore Rd, 1.5 km from town (20792; fax 5553). Modern complex of clean, comfortable rooms wit bath . Filling meals served in its dining room.
Anurag Resort
Ranthambore Rd, 1.5 km from town. Decent rooms with bath, as well as camping and a small dorm - very good value for budget travellers. The hotel grows most of its own food, and has a fascinating kitchen garden.
Pink Palace
Bal Mandir Colony, just northeast of the bridge (20722). Candy pink inside and out. The rooms are otherwise fairly ordinary - the pricier ones not even pink - with attached bath.
RTDC Castle
Jhoomar Baori, on a hillside 7 km out of town (20495). In a great location with 11 comfortable rooms in a former royal hunting lodge, with suites, a plush lounge and airy roof terrace (from which you may even spot the odd tiger) Book ahead; discounts April-June
RTDC Vinayak
Ranthambore Rd, 8 km from town (21333). New, very comfortable hotel.
Swagat
Main road, market area, about 500 m northeast of the railway station (-20601). Cheap and a bit grubby , but with friendly, efficient staff. The upstairs rooms are best. Each room has private bath, but don't expect any hidden comforts. The Vishal (20504), two doors away, is pretty similar.
By Rail:
Sawai Madhopur is on the main Delhi to Bombay broad -gauge railway line and, as most trains stop here, there is a wide range to choose from. The 108 km trip to Kota takes two hours and 10 minutes. Sawai Madhopur is also the junction of the metre-gauge spur to Jaipur and Bikaner, but this may soon be converted to broad gauge. Three trains a day travel this line in either direction. The 130-km trip to Jaipur takes around three hours .
Local Transport :
Excursions into the park must be booked at room No 2 at the Project Tiger office. (Tel: 20223 ),and jeeps can currently only be booked with them.
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SARISKA TIGER RESERVE
This region has always been good tiger country, and though the forest is much smaller now than it used to be, it remains a haven for them. At the last count in 1985 , a population of 35 was reported. Tiger sightings during daylight hours are uncommon but it appears that they are increasing as human interference decreases. Panther, jungle cat, jackal and hyena are among the other carnivores of the forest.
The Siliserh Lake is on the edge of the tiger reserve, just off the road between Sariska and Alwar. This road has considerable traffic and one is not likely to see many animals when driving on it though it runs through the sanctuary . But the lake itself has crocodiles which can be seen basking on the banks, particularly in winter. There is also a small place on a hill by the lake which is now a hotel . Among the prey population are the sambal, chital, nilgai, wild boar, hare and numerous porcupine. Over the last 10 years or more the prey population has become very visible and their
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numbers appear to be on the increase. Wildlife observation here is best done by driving into the forest in the morning or evening. Animal behavior at a water hole is fascinating to watch and this reserve offers unique opportunities for this. If one is lucky, a tiger, a panther or a wild dog may put in an appearance , though the cats are likely to show up only after dark, and cautiously. The park is rich in bird life too. Common pea fowl abound ,and gray partridge, quail , sand grouse, tree pie, white- breasted kingfisher, golden-backed woodpecker, crested serpent eagle and great Indian horned owl are among the many species found here. The best time to visit this forest is from November to March. In April, May and June, it is easy to observe the animals as they must come to drink at the water holes, but these months are extremely hot.
Sariska Tiger Reserve & National Park :
Situated 107 km from Jaipur and 200 km from Delhi, the Sanctuary is in a wooded valley surrounded by barren mountains. It covers 800 sq. km (including a core area of 498 sq km) and has blue bulls , sambar, spotted deer, wild boar and, above all, tigers. Project Tiger has been in charge of the sanctuary since 1979. As at Ranthambhore National Park, also in Rajasthan, this park contains ruined temples as well as a fort, pavilions and a palace (now a hotel) built by the the maharajas of Alwar, the former owners of this area. The sanctuary can be visited year-round, except during July/August when the animals move to higher ground, but the best time is between November and June. You'll see most wildlife in the evening, though tiger sightings are becoming more common during the day. The best way to see game is to book a 'hide' overlooking one of the waterholes. Take along food, drink and a sleeping bag (mattresses are provided).
RTDC Hotel Tiger Den : Tel : 0144-41342
Sariska Palace
From Delhi via Alwar 200 km , from Jaipur airport 120 km, from Sariska 36 km. Tel : 0144-41322
Hotel Lake Palace (RTDC)
Siliserh. 28 km from Sariska, 15 km from Alwar. Tel : 86322
RTDC Hotel Meenal
1/2 km from Alwar railway station, 3 km from Bus stand. Tel : 22852, 22991.
By Road :
Sariska is 35 km from Alwar, which is a convenient town from which to approach the sanctuary. There are direct buses to Alwar from Delhi (170 km) and Jaipur (146 km) . Though some people attempt to visit Sariska on a day trip from Jaipur, this option is expensive and largely a waste of time.
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CORBETT NATIONAL PARK
Just short of 300 km northeast of Delhi , cradled in the foothills of the Himalayas lies the Corbett National Park. It is India's first national park and also one of her finest. It was named Corbett National Park, in honor and memory of the late Jim Corbett, the legendary. hunter-naturalist turned author and photographer who helped in demarcating the park's boundaries and setting it up. The man who had influenced Jim Corbett most to hang up his guns and take to the camera was a forest officer, F.W. Champion, the pioneer of wildlife photography in India. This National Park was one of the first tiger reserves along with seven others in the country; today, there are 18 such reserves. The tiger census for 1984 reveals that there are now 4005 tigers in India. Corbett is , in fact , a large valley with its long axis from east to west. Through this valley run three thickly forested ridge systems roughly parallel to one another and in the same direction .
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Small offshoots of these ridges run north to south and the valleys formed in between are known as sots. The ridge to the north forms the boundary of the park in that direction and Panda, the highest point, with its magnificent panoramic view of the park is here. Corbett is open from mid-November to mid June but you should avoid the crowded weekends. The gates are closed at sunset and no night driving is allowed. Dhikala is the main accommodation centre in the park, 51 km from Ramnagar (the nearest railhead). Outside Corbett there are some expensive resorts and a few hotels in Ramnagar. Permits for an overnight stay in the park have to be obtained from the park reception centre at Ramnagar (Tel: 85-489) where accommodation is booked. Its open daily from 8 a.m. to 1 PM and 3 to 5 PM It's also possible to book some accommodation through UP Tourism in Delhi (Tel: 011-3322251), and the three rooms at Khinanauli must be booked through the Forest Office in Lucknow (Tel: 0522-246140_). Some travellers have reported that they've arrived at Ramnagar to be told that accommodation in Dhikala is booked out for up to five days ahead. If this is the case, rather than waiting in Ramnagar, make a booking and head for the nearby hill stations of Naini Tal or Ranikhet. Day visitors are not allowed to enter from Dhangarhi Gate or to visit Dhikala. To visit Bijrani you must first get permits from Ramnagar, only 100 permits are granted each day and no advance reservation is possible. Charges given in this section are for foreign nationals; Indians are charged about two -thirds less. At the park gates you must pay an entry fee. At Dhikala there's a library and interesting wildlife films are shown there (free) in the evenings. The elephant rides at sunrise and sunset are not to be missed . During the day you can sit in one of the observation posts to watch for animals. At Bijrani there's an interpretation centre and restaurant. It's sometimes possible to get elephant rides from here. There's a bank for foreign exchange in Ramnagar.
Dhikala :
There's a wide range of accommodation but the prices charged for foreigners mean that it's not good value. There's a very basic dormitory (like three tier sleepers on the trains!). There are two restaurants, one run by KMVN and the other a private operation. With your own transport and food, you can also stay in Forest Rest Houses at Sarapduli, Bijrani, or Gairal, Khinanauli; and any of the other Forest Rest Houses (see the Corbett National Park map) . Don't forget to ' clearance certificate ' at Dhikala before you leave the park.
Ramnagar :
Note that if you use Ramnagar a base you'll have to rent a jeep here and you won't be able to go out on elephant rides on the centre of the park, as day visits to Dhikala are not allowed. There's a good Tourist Bungalow (Tel ;85225), next to the reception centre. Down the side street off the main drag, the Hotel Everest has rooms with bathrooms . Rooms at the hotel Govind are a little cheaper but not so clean. This place does, however , have a good restaurant. The manager is very helpful but don't believe the sign that says 'Alcoholic Drinks Strictly Prohibited' !
Other Palaces :
There are some upmarket resorts, but they're outside the park. The quality Inn Corbett Jungle Resort (Tel :85230) has attractive cottages high above the river (including meals) and offers elephant rides and excursions into Corbett. The Corbett Riverside Resort (Tel : 85961) have some pleasant rooms in a peaceful location close to the river. The Claridges Corbett Hideaway (Tel : 85959) is more upmarket with accommodation in attractive ochre cottages set in an orchard of mango trees . Tiger Tops Corbett Lodge (Tel : 011- 6444016) is a very luxurious place . There are elephant rides, jeep trips and a swimming pool. Despite the name it's not part of the company that, operates the resort in Chitwan (Nepal)
By Rail :
Ramnagar is connected by train with Moradabad. The bus terminal is near the reception centre and the hotels : the railway station is 1.5 km south.
By Road :
Ramnagar is connected by bus with Delhi , Lucknow , Naini Tal and Ranikhet. The bus terminal is near the reception centre and the hotels: the railway station is 1.5 km south. A bus runs from Ramnagar to Dhikala at 3.30 PM, returning from Dhikala at 9 am the next day. The airport at Pantnagar is 110 km away - too far to be of any use . There are also three day package tours operated by UP Tourism and others from Delhi.
Local Transport :
Apart from the daily bus service to Dhikala the only form of transport available there is elephants. Jeeps can usually only be rented at Ramnagar .
Kathgodam & Haldwani
These two towns, six km apart, form an important travel junction for travellers to Naini Tal and most of the hill stations in the Kumaon region. Kathgodam is the railhead and there are evening trains to Lucknow , Agra and Jodhpur. There are retiring rooms, a good refreshment room and a tourist office. Bookings can be made in the out-agencies in many hill stations. There's supposed to be a connecting bus to Naini Tal but if the train is late you'll miss it. If you're coming up to this area it may be better to get off the train at Haldwani, where there's a big bus terminal.
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KAZIRANGA NATIONAL PARK :
Kaziranga :
The monsoon and the Brahmaputra leave Kaziranga with a comparatively short season - January to May. Approachable from either Guwahati of Jorhat, it is sandwiched by the highway to the south and the river to its north. The reserve sprawls over 165 sq. miles (430 sq. km ) of grassland and impenetrable vegetative luxuriance comprising close-tangled and thorny rattan cane, elephant grass and tall trees of the evergreen forests. Until 1908 , Kaziranga was a sportsman's and Poacher's paradise, but the rapidly declining population of rhino forced the authorities, in 1926 , to constitute it a reserve forest, closed to shooting.
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Some estimates put the then rhino population at about a dozen and the subsequent revival of this massive an powerful animal, reminiscent of prehistoric ages, has been one of the more notable feats of fauna conservation. In 1940 , Kaziranga was officially declared a wildlife sanctuary. In almost all wildlife reserves in India , the visitor needs to give himself a few days to have a reasonable chance of seeing wildlife at close quarters . Kaziranga , however, is the exception where one can hope to see most of the mammals for which it is known in a single day. The only natural enemy of the rhino is the tiger of which there is a sizable population in the park . The tall grass and the patches of forest provide excellent cover for the big cats which are therefore rarely seen. Sometimes a tiger will attack and kill a rhino calf despite the mother's aggressive vigilance, but the rhino suffers more at the hand of man. Its horn, believed to be an aphrodisiac by the ancient Indians and highly sought after by Chinese medicine men, is a lucrative target for poachers. The rhino, being a creature of set habits, follows well-worn trails and even defecates at the same spot each day. Taking advantage of its regular habits, a pit large enough to accommodate its body is dug by the poachers in its usual path and then covered with leaves and grass. The unwary animal falls into the pit where it is killed and its horn hacked off with a ado. Other parts of the body also command sale value. As both sexes carry the horn, the threat is doubly compounded. The presence of buffalo and rhino make walking in the sanctuary a difficult proposition. A third species ensure that visitors enter only riding elephants or in vehicles. Herds of up to 200 wild elephants can be seen migrating from the Mikir hills to the bheels and, like the buffalo, it is again the solitary bull elephant which is prone to create trouble. A riding elephant, on occasion, can wander into a herd of wild elephants; on the other hand , a wild elephant will even caress a trained one with its trunk, oblivious of the dreaded human cargo on its back. As one starts from Mihimukh where nearly 20 elephants are stabled (owing to patrol duties and pregnancies, only four or five are usually available to tourists and it is advisable to reserve a day in advance) . Small herds of barasingha and the odd wild boar are usually among the first animals seen.
Birds :
Grasslands are often excellent raptor country, and Kaziranga is no exception - the crested serpent eagle is common, Pallas's fishing eagle and the gray-headed fishing eagle are frequently seen.
The park is open from November to April. There is a tourist information centre (Tel :423) at Kaziranga. They have a minibus and also organize those elephant rides into the long grass. Guides are free. Avoid organized tours to Kaziranga from Guwahati since they're too short (two days) and you'll spend most of that time on the bus (some nine hours in all) and have only one game drive. It's best to have at least three nights and four days in Kaziranga if you want to see anything. There is a variety of accommodation around the park, including forest inspection bungalows at Beguri (no bedding of mosquito nets), Arimarh (no electricity) and kohora. Or there is a soil Conservation Inspection Bungalow, a PWD Inspection Bungalow and two tourist bungalows . At the top of the price scale there is the Aranya Lodge . It's a good place to stay and is well run. The lodge provides a jeep and driver and the forest department provides a guide. Another good place is the wild Grass Resort (Tel: 037762-81437).
By Air : Calcutta to Jorhat flights land 84 km from the park.
By Rail : Furketing is the most convenient railway station, 72 km away; from here buses and jeeps run to Kaziranga.
By Road : Guwahati is 233 km away on Highway 37 . There are state transport buses from Guwahati.
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KEOLADEO GHANA NATIONAL PARK (BHARATPUR)
Over 350 species of birds find a refuge in the 11sq miles (29 sq. km) of shallow lakes and woodland which makes up the park. A third of them are migrants many of whom winter in Bharatpur before returning to their breeding grounds as far away as Siberia and Central Asia. Some 120 species nest in the park and the heronry at Keoladeo Ghana is said to be one of the finest in the world .The park is open throughout the year although most visitors choose to come between the months of October and March when wintering wildfowl assemble in their thousands on the lakes or jheels. No less than 415 kinds of birds have been recorded at the Keoladeo Sanctuary, 117 of which migrate from as far away as Siberia and China. The sanctuary was formerly a vast semi-arid region, filling during the monsoon season only to rapidly dry up afterwards. To prevent this , the maharaja of Bharatpur diverted water from a nearby irrigation canal and, within a few years, birds began to settle in vast numbers .
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Today some 80 types of ducks are among the species which nest in the sanctuary. The food requirements of the bird population can be enormous and it's hard to believe that these shallow lakes would be capable of meeting it - yet they do. For example, as many as 3000 painted storks nesting in a sq. km need about three tons of fish every day, which amounts to over 90 tons of fish over their 40 day nesting period - and that's just one species. There is an entry fee for camera, video camera, cycles, scooters and cycle-rickshaws. Vehicles are prohibited in the park, so the only way of getting around is by bicycle or cycle-rickshaw only those cycle-rickshaws authorized by the government (recognizable by the yellow plate bolted onto the front) are allowed inside the park - beware of anyone who tells you otherwise ! Although you don't pay entry fees for the drivers of these cycle rickshaws . Some of the drivers actually know a lot about the birds you'll expect a tip on top of that. Some of the drivers actually know a reasonable request. If you wish to hire an experienced ornithologist . The best way to see the park is to hire a bicycle . This allows you to easily avoid the bottlenecks which inevitably occur at the nesting sites of the larger birds. It's just about the only way you'll be able to watch the numerous kingfishers at close quarters noise or human activity frightens them away. You can also avoid clocking up a large bill with a rickshaw driver. Some of the hotels rent bicycles; otherwise, they can be hired from near the hotel saras, but these are not cheap. If you plan to visit the sanctuary at dawn (one of the best times to see the birds), you'll have to hire your bicycle the day before. The southern reaches of the park are virtually devoid of humans or tourists and so are much better than the northern part for serious bird-watching.
Boats can be hired from the ticket checkpoint . They are a very good way of getting close to the wildlife in its park. There is a snack bar and drinks kiosk about halfway through the park, next to the so called Keoladeo Temple (hardly a temple more a small shrine). This is one bird sanctuary which even non-ornithologists should visit. It is open daily from 6 am to 6 PM (exit by 7 PM).
There's quite a good range of accommodation in Bharatpur, although it can get very busy during holidays, particularly around Christmas and the New Year. Since the railway station is about seven km from the park, it's best to stay somewhere between Mathura Gate and the park entrance. A place that is popular with travelers is the friendly Tourist Lodge (Tel: 23-742), near Mathura Gate. The shagun Tourist home , inside Mathura Gate, is run by a friendly guy. Directly opposite is the Hotel Eagle's Nest with 12 rooms . Further along the road is the Hotel Sunbird, but the four rooms in this popular little place fill up quickly. They are clean with attached bath and constant hot water .Nearby is the Hotel Pelican, run by the same people as the Tourist Lodge. There are basic rooms with common bath . It's also a good place to rent bikes. Next is the Annex , expensive rooms with attached bath. The outdoor restaurant here is an excellent place to eat, and the staff are very friendly. In the eucalyptus grove beside the Annex is the Keoladeo Resort, a tented camp. Cover yourself from head to toe in mosquito repellent if you're going to stay here. Just behind the Hotel Saras is the Spoonbill Hotel & Restaurant. There are just two rooms , both with bathroom attached. Good meals are available. You have to pay for the privilege of staying in the national park itself. The ITDC Ashok Forest Lodge (Tel : 22-722) is about one km beyond the entrance gate. It's a very pleasant hotel. Meals are available and there's also a bar. All the other hotels are much closer to the railway station. They also seem to pay the rickshaw drivers commission, so you pay more. These hotels include :
Hotel Alora (Tel:22-616), Kumher Gate;
The Hotel Avadh (Tel : 22462), Kumher Gate;
The Hotel Tourist Complex;
The Hotel Nand (Tel : 23-119); and
The Hotel Kohinoor (Tel : 23-733) .
The Park Palace Hotel (Tel : 23-222) near Kumher Gate is a good, clean and friendly place .
By Road :
Bharatpur is on the Agra to Jaipur road, just two hours by bus from Agra of an hour from Fatehpur Sikri . The Fatehpur Sikri buses pass the front door of the Hotel Saras Tourist Bungalow and will stop there if you ask. Buses from Jaipur take about 4 and 1/2 hours . However , as the RSTC seems to select their most decrepit buses for this run, the train is preferable.
By Rail :
Bharatpur is on the Delhi to Bombay broad-gauge line as well as the Delhi-Agra-Jaipur-Ahmedabad metre-gauge line, ensuring a good choice of trains. Be certain that the one you choose is going to stop at Bharatpur - not all trains do . The line between Jaipur and Agra is currently being converted to broad gauge so you may find it closed.
Local Transport :
You can use tongas, auto-rickshaws and cycle-rickshaws to get around town, and the state tourist office has a minibus (see the tourist officer).
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KANHA NATIONAL PARKS
Kanha diverse miscellany of mammal and bird life is without many parallels, because so much is seen so well in so short a time. Yet Kanha is better known as the best place in the world to see tigers. Sighting tigers on drives here is not uncommon, but seeing and photographing tigers from elephant back, sometimes after a thrilling systematic track, is a memorable experience. Elephants usually go out very early in the morning for tiger tracking from Kisli, Kanha or Mukki. An elephant accommodates up to 4 persons besides the mahout the elephant driver and the friend, philosopher and guide of the visitor. But the game of tracking is thrilling and affords a real feel of the dynamic wilderness, unlike the tiger, not for a prolonged view. Other rare sightings may include amnitor lizard, or a porcupine or a python. Of course a host of birds and often gaur sambar and muntjac are seen too. Once the tiger settles down, it can be viewed for several hours. Kanha , 175 km south-east of Jabalpur, is one of India's largest national parks covering 1945 sq. km including a 'core zone' of 940 sq. km.
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Excursions into the park are made in the early morning and evening ; no night driving is allowed. Between 1 July and 31 October, Kanha is completely closed owing to the monsoons. Although the wildlife can be seen throughout the season, sightings increase as the weather gets hotter in March and April and the animals move out of the tree cover in search of water. The hottest months are May and June when the temperature can reach although it's warm enough to do without a sweater during the day, as soon as the sun sets the temperature quickly plunges to zero and below. Excursions into the park can be very cold so bring plenty of warm clothes. There are no facilities for changing travellers' cheque here . The nearest places to do this are at Mandla and Jabalpur . There's a telephone and small shop at Kisli but no petrol - the pump here has been dry for years. Make sure you bring enough film. It needs to be fast film because of the low light of the early morning and evening excursions. The local market at Sarekha on Fridays draws the colourful Baiga tribal people and is worth going to. There's a small fee for entry to the park.
In a joint project with the US National park service and the Indian Centre for Environment education, three visitor centres have been set up. The interpretative displays in these centres at Khatia and Mukki gates and at Kanha itself are of a very high standard and well worth looking round. The Kanha display is the most impressive with five galleries and a research hall. As well as display of the animals and the environment, there's a novel sound & light show ' Encounters in the Dark' . Select the English or Hindi soundtrack and spend an enjoyable 20 minutes in a small dark room with five other people, ' there is no danger, all exhibits are artificial'! A number of publications are on sale including informative brochures, posters and postcards, and a small guide to the roadside markers installed as part of the project. There's also a full-colour handbook to the park .The visitor centres are open from 7 to 10.30 am and from 4 to 6 PM daily, and there are free film shows each evening at the Khatia visitor Centre.
Nearest town is Mandla 65 km from Kisli, where field director's office is situated. The nearest airport & railway station are Jabalpur, 160 km from Kisli & 167 km to Mukki. A train or flight is recommended to reach Kanha. There are direct state transport buses from the city bus stand in Jabalpur to Kisli Gate twice daily at 7 am and 11 am . Tickets go on sale about 15 minutes before departure . In the opposite direction, the buses depart from Kisli at around 8 am and noon but the early bus can be late starting in winter. These are ramshackle old buses and crowded as far as Mandla though there are generally spare seats after thar. Don't bring too much baggage as there's hardly anywhere to put it. On the Kisli to Jabalpur run you may have to change buses at Mandla. The nearest railway station to Kisli is 11&1/2 hours by bus at Chiraidongri. It's reached on a slow journey by narrow-gauge trains that will appeal to rail enthusiasts, via Nainpur from either from either Jabalpur or Gondia .
Local Transport :
Jeeps are for hire at both Khatia and Kisli Gates and the cost is calculated on a per km basis. Park entry fees are extra. Park gates are open from sunrise to noon and 3 PM to sunset from November to 15 February; sunrise to noon and 4 PM to sunset from 16 February to 30 April, and sunrise to 11 PM and 5 PM to sunset from 1 May to 30 June. An average distance covered on a morning excursion would be 60 km,. less in the afternoon . At the height of the season there may not be enough jeeps to go round so book as soon as you arrive . As in other Indian national parks, drivers tend to drive too fast and not wait around long enough for game to appear. If you think they're being impatient, tell them to slow down. And stay in the Jeep if it breaks down.
Elephants are available for hire . They used to be used for game-viewing safaris but it seems this practice has now ceased; check on arrival at the park.
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MANAS TIGER RESERVE
This sanctuary , in contrast of Kaziranga, is far removed from the National Highway and the mainstream of human life passes it by. Manas has a much longer season than Kaziranga, the only wet period from mid May to September, but the best period to visit the area is either in November or February. Unlike the open swamps and grasslands of Kaziranga , where the visitor may see a large number of animals , wildlife viewing in Manas is never regular - or easy. But when one confronted by an animal, it is usually at close quarters and, invariably, exciting and dramatic.
While the golden langur are usually approachable on foot from the boat landing on the Bhutan side, the colorful capped langur is only approachable from elephant back. Extremely shy, these primates usually move away, but if one were to watch them quietly for half an hour, they seem to forger your presence and go about their business of eating and grooming with the nonchalance so typical of the langur family. The Assamese macaque is rarely seen in the forests, but they inhabit the islands downstream and move in large troupes from place to place. The slow loris and the Hoolock gibbon also extend into Manas, but sightings are rare.
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A lot more elusive and shy is the Indian bison, or gaur, which stands taller than a buffalo at the shoulder. Sometimes, one can see a large herd in the grassy glades, but at the slightest sound or movement, they thunder off into the cover of the forest. Another method of looking for gaur is to drive along the foothills, on jungle tracks which are hemmed in by tall grass on either side. The area is full of hog deer and sometimes a tiger can be seen plodding along the tracks, looking for a chance to kill. This stretch is good for the other big cats too. When fires are lit to burn the grass , a clouded leopard may emerge from behind a smoldering tree trunk where he had been feeding off insects which are forced out by the smoke. ,Manas provides an ideal habitat for the sloth bear, yet another species inseparably linked with Manas , and they too can usually be seen at dawn or at dusk. In fact , the sloth is often seen when the light is too poor for photography. Picked up by a spotlight, it will scuttle away but sometimes curiosity gets the better of him, and animal will come close to the jeep, staring at it with myopic eye.
For insects , butterflies and reptiles, the northeast is prime country and the blaze of color at ground level in the jungle holds one in breathless wonder. In the canopy above, winged stars steal the show; scarlet minivets flash their orange and yellow towards the watching heavens; a bee-eater clicks its beak as it grabs a bee; magpie robins and bulbuls fill the air with their constant chatter. But the main attraction is the giant hornbill which whooshes its way from tree to sharing more or less the same habitat. Red jungle fowl and kaleej pheasants scratch for their food from under the fallen leaves, while the great river offers ornithologists its own brand of avifauna with mergansers and brahminy ducks, egrets, pelicans and herons, eagles , falcons and harriers. Manas undoubtedly is a very special place.
Manas is best from January to March, although there is excellent fishing from November to December. Mothangirl is the main town in the park but the tourist information centre is on Barpeta Rd. Entry and camera charges are the same as Kaziranga. Boats can be hired for excursions of fishing trips on the Manas river.
The Manas tourist Lodge has a range of rooms which are all relatively cheap or you can camp if you have a tent. The forest Bungalow doesn't have electricity but it is cheaper, and includes bedding and mosquito nets. There is a rest house at the Barpeta Rd tourist centre.
By Air :Guwahati, 176 km away, has the nearest airport.
By Rail : Barpeta Rd, 40 km from Mothangiri, is the nearest railway station .
Transport from Barpeta Rd to Mothangiri must be arranged in advance.
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PERIYAR
Periyar has become one of the most picturesque wildlife sanctuaries in the world and is enjoyed by over 150000 tourists every year . For the animals, the reservoir and surrounding forests provide, protection and a perennial water supply. For the more deeply interested visitor or naturalist who has the time and inclination, a longer stay is certainly worthwhile : Periyar is a truly spectacular sanctuary. Although walking into the sanctuary on one's own is discouraged by the forest department, it is possible to go on treks with tribal guides and there are watchtowers overlooking pools which can be used. It must be remembered, however, that the animals feel most comfortable and allow the closest approach by boat. The only flat areas of Periyar are the marshy grasslands at the ends of the fingers of the lake. The typical habitat is rolling or steep hills . The actual area covered by forest is sometimes surprisingly little, with big areas of grassland between patches of forest. But this is the hallmark of a dynamic ecosystem, that which provides dense forest cover (for shade and browse in the hot months) and , adjacent to it, rich grasslands for the big herbivores.
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There is probably no sanctuary in the world where elephant behavior can by watched in such absolute comfort and safety. The total elephant population is about 800 and one can approach to within 20 yard (20 meters) of placid groups feeding , bathing and swimming. Often , after a swim, elephants indulge in their own brand of mudslinging; trunkfulls of dust are sprayed on their backs, an activity which may decrease parasite infestation and protect them from the sun. But whatever the reason, it is a spectacular sight. Unlike their African cousins , female Indian elephants have no tusks. In fact no all bulls have tusks either. Tuskless males are called maknas. Amale tusker is of course a magnificent animal, but it may be that the maknas are the lucky ones, because sustained poaching for ivory has wiped out most of the big tuskers in South Indian Jungles. The high stakes involved make poachers increasingly daring and bold, and forest officials have an almost insurmountable problem on their hands . The ivory criminals have in recent years started hanging live wires to electrocute elephants. Also, tuskers are singled out and crippled by a shot in the knee; the helpless animal is then closely approached and killed. It is equally tragic when a wounded elephant manages to get away from its killers. People report that tuskers with a crippled leg use their tusk as a crutch for support.
If you go to Periyar hoping to see tigers , you are almost certain to be disappointed. The great cats require an enormous amount of territory on which to lead their solitary lives and it's estimated the 777-sq-km sanctuary has about 35 tigers and leopards. It is home to bison, antelopes, sambars , wild boars, monkeys , langurs, a wide variety of birds, and some 750 elephants.
There's a small tourist office in Kumily and a wildlife Information Centre near the boat jetty in Thekkady. It's advisable to bring warm clothes and waterproof clothing to Periyar. Entry to the park costs Rs 50 for foreigners and is valid for five days.
Boat trips on the lake are the standard way of seeing the sanctuary, but spend one day at Periyar and take a midday boat trip and you're unlikely to see anything. 'As soon as a shy animal sticks its head up', reported one visitor, 'all aboard shout and scream until it goes again'. The first (7 am) and last (4 PM) departures offer the best wildlife spotting prospects. It's better to get a small group together (the smaller the better) and charter your own boat. They're available in a variety of sizes .
Jungle walks can also be interesting. A daily three-hour walk departs early in the morning and costs RS 10 per person. Guides can also be arranged from the Wildlife Information Centre for walks further into the park. Curiously, they don't promote this activity, so you must ask insistently about it. Visitors are not allowed to walk in the park without an accompanying guide. Some of the guides are very knowledgeable and they're certainly cautions in areas where animals may be present. Turning a blind comer and stumbling into a wild elephant is not a wise idea. The third way to see wildlife is to spend a night in one of the observation towers , although these are often booked out weeks in advance. This costs RS 50 a night plus the boat drop-off charge and you must bring your own food supplies. Elephant rides are for fun, not for serious wildlife viewing. The best time to visit the sanctuary is between September and May. The hot season (February to May) may be less comfortable but will offer more wildlife sightings because in the hot season other water sources dry up and the wildlife is forced to come down to the lakeside. Weekends are best avoided because of noisy day-trippers . What you see is a matter of luck, but even those elusive tigers do show themselves occasionally. One guide reported that in the three years he had spent at the park, he had seen tigers only twice : on one occasion, he saw a tiger swimming in the lake close to the Lake Palace Hotel.
Kumily is a one street town, but it has accommodation ranging from dirt cheap to luxurious. Although it's four km from the lake, you can catch the semi-regular bus, hire a bicycle of set off on foot - it's a pleasant, shady walk into the park. The Mukumkal Tourist Home (Tel : 22070) is close to the bus station. Avoid the back rooms ,which can be noisy if the hotel's generator is switched on. The hotel's little chef restaurant is a reasonable place to eat. The big Lake Queen Tourist Home (Tel : 22086) , next to the Kottayam road junction, has 54 rooms . The Lakeland Restaurant is downstairs. Along the road to the park is the Rolex Lodge (Tel: 22081) . Close by, the woodlands Hotel ( Tel :2207) is a bit gloomy but it's cheap. Continuing towards the park entrance, the Karthika Tourist Home (Tel : 22146) has doubles with bath and a vegetarian restaurant. Next along the road is the very upmarket Spice Village (Tel: 22315) , which is part of the Casino Group. This well -designed , new resort has attractive cottage in a pleasant garden with a swimming pool. The Hotel Ambadi (Tel :22192) has cottages and rooms. It also has quite a good restaurant. A final possibility is the Leelapankaj (Tel : 22299) , right by the sanctuary entrance gate . Just outside the sanctuary entrance , the outdoor Coffee Inn has an interesting selection of music and good travellers' food (including homemade brown bread). In the tradition of travellers' restaurants in India, the food takes a long time to arrive.
The KTDC has three hotels in the park. It's a good idea to make advance reservations, particularly for weekend visits. This can be done at any KTDC office or hotel. Periyar House (Tel :22026), the cheapest of the three, is very popular. The restaurant serves good vegetarian and non-vegetarian food at reasonable prices. Aranya Nivas (Tel: 22023) has very pleasant rooms and aircon suites. These prices drop in the low season. There's a bar, garden area, TV lounge, postal and banking facilities and a small handicrafts shop. Food in the restaurant is excellent . Guests at the Aranya Nivas are entitled to a free morning and afternoon boat trip. The lake Palace (Tel: 22023) is well away from the noise of day-trippers. Guests are transferred to the hotel by boat and should arrive at the Thekkady boat jetty by 4 PM for the final trip of the day back to the hotel. Rooms in the palace, at one time the maharaja's game lodge, including all meals. If you can afford it, this is a delightful place to stay and you can actually see animals from your room. With a guide, it's possible to walk to the Lake Palace from the boat jetty in about an hour. There are Rest Houses in the sanctuary at Manakavala (8 km from Kumily), Mullakkudy (39 km) and Edappalayam (5 km) . Not all of them may be open for visitors but you can find out and book at the Wildlife Information Centre. Near the boat jetty in Thekkady, there's a snack bar offering basic food , snacks and drinks.
By Road :
The bus station in Kumily is just a bit of spare land at the eastern edge of town, near the state border. It's chaotic when more than three buses are there at once. All buses originating or terminating at Periyar start and finish at Aranya Nivas in Thekkady, but they also stop at the Kumily Bus Station. Buses operate on the Ernakulam, Kottayam , Kumily, Madurai route. There are four express buses daily between Ernakulam and Kumily. Three continuing to Madurai. Buses to Ernakulam take six hours . The 110-km trip from Kottayam takes about four hours . Regular buses go every half hour. The buses pass through rubber plantations and villages with Pastel-coloured churches and rocket-like shrines. The road then climbs steadily through a mass of tea, coffee and yardman Plantations. At least two direct buses daily make the eight hour trip to Thiruvananthapuram . Another goes to Kovalam (nine hours), and another to Kodaikanal (6 & 1/2 hours)
Local Transport :
A bus operates between Kinily and Thekaddy every 15 minutes. The KTDC periyar house and Aranya Nivas both have bicycles for rent .
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BANDHAVGARH NATIONAL PARK
Within the park : Bandhavgarh is justifiably famous for its tigers, but it has a wide range of other game . The undergrowth is not as dense as in some northern terai forests, but the best time to see the park's inhabitants is still the summer months when water becomes more scarce and the undergrowth dies back. The most effective way to search for tigers is on elephant back. It's advisable to book your elephant in advance and to wear plenty of warm clothing if going for an early morning ride in winter. The mahouts are kept well-informed of the whereabouts of the nearest tigers but will generally only go for comparatively short trips into the jungle on the north side of the main viewing area. There are several good weather roads in the park .
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Jeeps are definitely recommended over other vehicles and can be hired from the White Tiger Lodge or the Bandhavgarh Jungle Camp. It's also advisable to take a guide. The Bandhavgarh Jungle Camp provides an excellent service of good, English speaking guides, who are also available from the White Tiger Lodge. A forest guard must accompany all visitors into the park. Entry into the park is allowed only during daylight hours. For both elephant and jeep rides the hours immediately after dawn and before sunset are best. There are two types of monkey common in the park - the rhesus macaque and the black faced langur. Drives can also reveal jungle cats, hyenas, porcupines, ratels and a variety of other mammals. At least one small pack of wild dogs inhabits the central area of the park.
As the park is relatively new, there is still a good chance of adding birds to the checklist of some 150 species already compiled . Bandhavgarh attracts many migratory birds in the winter months, including birds of prey like the steppe eagle and a variety of wildfowl. Very attractive and less common birds can be seen - for example the blue bearded bee eater, the white- bellied drongo, Tickell's blue flycatcher, the white-browed fantail, both the gold fronted and Jerdon's leaf birds, minivets and wood shrikes. Any large fruiting tree generally reveals a population of green pigeons and some of the noisiest residents blossom headed parakeets. Gray and less often, the magnificent black and white Malabar hornbills , fly across. On roads through the sal forests it's worth looking out for the large racket-tailed drongo and the dipping plumes of the paradise flycatcher.
As you follow the path southwards, the most remarkable sights are the 10th century rock images of the incarnations of Vishnu. A statue of Narasimha (half-man half-lion) towers almost 22 ft above the grass. There is a carving of Barah Bhagwan (the boar incarnation), and a small temple enshrining a large image of Vishnu in his fish avatar. The tortoise incarnation stands unenclosed and flanked by later carvings of Ganesh , the elephant god, and other deities. The charm of this walk lies in discovering these monuments in the jungle , unspoiled and unexploited. Some of the statues lie off the main path and so it is best to take a guide. Apart from the avatars, well worth seeing are three small temples of around the 12th century. These temples are deserted but the fort is still used as a place of worship . Kabir Das , the celebrated 16th century saint, once lived and preached here.
This national park is 197 km northeast of Jabalpur in the Vindhyan mountain range. It's not part of project Tiger but tigers are occasionally seen here, more frequently late in the season. There are 25 tigers in the 'core' area of 105 sq. km but a buffer zone of 343 sq. km has recently been added , along with another 25 tigers. Bandhavgarh's setting is impressive. It's named after the ancient fort built on some 800 meter high cliffs. There's a temple at the fort which can be visited by jeep and below it are numerous rock-cut cave shrines. The core area of the park is fairly small with a fragile ecology but it supports such animals as nilgai, wild boar, jackal , gaur, sambar and porcupine as well as many species of birds . The ramparts of the fort provide a home for vultures, blue rock thrushes and crag martins. Like Kanha , the park is closed for the middle part of the day , and completely from 1 July to 31 October. There's a small entry fee, and jeeps and guides can be hired. There's a small range of accommodation just outside the park gate in the village of Tala, where there are also several cheap places to eat. The cheapest accommodation is at the ornate looking Tiger Lodge . The hotel Baghela looks better and is worth checking out, if it's open. The nature resort might be fun- it advertises ' lunch time games for everyone' . MP Tourism's white Tiger Forest lodge is a good place, overlooking the river where the elephants bathe. The food is good and the waiters and manager all very friendly. Advance booking is advisable, phone the lodge directly if you're booking less than five days in advance. You can also stay in the former palace of the Mahareja of Rewa here, the Bandhavgarh Jungle Camp. It's an expensive place , includes all food and visits to the park,. The address for bookings is 1/1 Rani Jhansi Rd, Delhi 110055 (Tel (011) - 52-3057).
By Rail : Umaria, on the Katni to Bilaspur railway line, is the nearest railhead, 32 km away.
By Road : Local buses are available from there to Tala. From Satna there's morning bus to Tala which takes around four hours via Amarpatam .
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NAGARAHOLE & BANDIPUR NATIONAL PARK
Eighty km south of Mysore on the Mysore to Udhagamandalam (Ooty) road, this wildlife sanctuary covers 865 sq km and is part of a larger national park which also includes the neighboring wildlife sanctuaries of Mudumalai in TamilNadu and Wynad in Kerala. In the days of the Mysore maharajas this was their game reserve. The sanctuary is one of the 15 selected across the country for Project Tiger, a scheme launched in 1973 by the World Wide Fund for nature to save the tiger and its habitat. The sanctuary is noted for its herds of bison, spotted deer, elephant Sambar, sloth bears and langurs. There are supposed to be two dozen tigers but they are rarely seen. The best time to go is May and June, and again from September to November. If there is a drought, the park may not be worth visiting , as the animals migrate to the adjoining Mudumalai park for water. Visitors must pay a fee to enter the park but this includes a one-hour tour in the forest Department's bus. This 27-seat bus does one-hour tours each day at 6.30 ,7.30 and 8.30 am, 4 and 5 pm. Elephant rides are the only other means of game viewing . Private vehicles are not allowed to tour the park and the Bandipur road is closed from 6.30 PM to 6 am. Bus tours and forest department accommodation must be booked in advance . For reservations, contact either the Chief Wildlife Warden (Tel: 334-1993), Aranya Bhavan, 18th Cross, Malleswaram in Bangalore or the Field Director (Tel: 52-0901), project Tiger , Ashokpuram, Mysore.
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Not surprisingly, the park has seen few visitors in recent years and facilities are still minimum. Foreigners must pay fee while in the park; the best time to visit is from October to May. In theory , the Forest Department has a minibus available for wildlife viewing but you'd be wise to inquire whether it's operating before going all the way to Nagarhole. All inquiries and booking should be directed to Chief Wildlife Warden (Tel: 3341993) , Aranya Bhavan, 18th Cross, Maileswaram, in Bangalore or The
Deputy Conservator of the Forest & Wildlife Division (Tel : 08222-2041) at Hunsur.
By Road :
All buses between Mysore and Ooty will stop at Bandipur. From Bandipur , they continue via Theppakadu in Mudumalai to Ooty. The last bus back to Mysore leaves at 5.30 PM
Nagarhole is open year-round, but avoid the monsoons, when floods wash out most of its dirt tracks, and leeches make hiking impossible. To get there from Mysore, catch one of the two daily buses from the Central stand to Hunsur , 110 km from the park's north gate, where you can pick up transport to the Forest Department's two Rest Houses.
The Forest Department's huge deluxe bungalows have bathrooms and hot water . The caretaker (or somebody) will fix meals, and you can see chital (spotted deer) right from your windows. These bungalows must be booked and paid for in advance - if you turn up without a reservation, it's unlikely you'll be given a room (you may get one late at night when there is no chance of someone with a reservation turning up). The only private resort is Bush Betta, about four km from the Bandipur reception centre off the road to Mudumalai. It's only a few years old and has doubles including all meals, an elephant ride and a safari. Bookings must be made in advance at their Bangalore office (Tel:221-0504) at 8 Richmond Rd.
Forest Department's two rest Houses have to be booked well in advance through the Forest Department offices in Mysore or Bangalore. Turn up on spec, and you'll be told accommodation is "not available". It is also essential to arrive at the park gates well before dusk, as the road through the reserve to the lodges closes at 6 PM, and is prone to "elephant blocks". The other accommodation in Nagarhole is the luxury Kabini River Lodge (book through Karnataka Jungle Lodges in Bangalore; 080/5597022;), approached via the village of Karapura, 3 km from the park's south entrance. Set in its own leafy compound on the lakeside, this former Maharaja's hunting lodge offers expensive all-in deals that include transport around the park with expert guides. It's impossible to reach by public transport , so you'll need to rent a car to get there.
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